Мне, наверно как и многим владельцам SC430 не дают покоя задние форточки, которые нельзя опускать или поднимать по своему усмотрению. Пошерстив американский лексус форум нашел пару тем с подробным описанием процесса:
www.clublexus.c...er-window-mod-part-deux.html
www.clublexus.c...quarter-window-mod-done.html
Собственно цель сделать так:
Для этого амеры используют 2 реле, которые ставят между мозгами и моторчиками форточек, но в силу слабых знаний в электрике и плохого английского я сам не решусь такое сделать. Нужны советы более осведомленных соклубников как это сотворить, или хотя бы объяснить электрику который воплотит это в жизнь. Жду ваших комментариев
Ниже прикладываю описание на английском всего процесса и немного фоток.
YOU WILL NEED 2 RELAYS
Ok, now the wires for the rear quarter windows are as follows. There are 5 connectors on the top computer (the big computer off to the left of the trunk), A thru E with connector (A) being closest to the front of the car. The pin outs are a little tricky, so look for wire color and then check the pin out number to make sure you got the right wire.
The window wires are just slightly thicker than the smaller control wires but if I remember right, one of the windows motors has thicker wires for some strange reason. So left window is: Connector (E) pin # (7) color (Blk/Yel) and pin # (
color Blk/Red. Right window is connector (D) pin # 3 color (Yel) and pin # 1 color (Blk).
The window wires should be either on top of each other or side by side.
Use common sense before cutting. I tried to cut the wires at least two inches away from the connector just in case. There really is no polarity on this whole system since, you can always reverse the relays or switch.
The power I used was from the package tray circuit. It’s a little harder to find than the window motors and double check to make sure you have the right circuit by pulling the fuse and measuring the voltage. This circuit is always powered so be careful. And lastly, you will need to replace the stock package tray circuit with atleast a 30amp fuse. I've used 30amp fuses on my car and the two other ones that I've done and so far so good. The package tray circuit is connector (C) pin
# (7) color (blu/Blk). And the ground I used for the windows was just
a one of the nuts that hold top computer.
Here is the wiring breakdown;
If you look at the relays you will see each terminal is numbered 1-14
Numbers 1 & 2 on relay 1 are inputs from the ecu side of motor # 1,9 & 10 are outputs of those wires from relay 1 Then those same wires go to # 1& 2 on relay 2 and then there output comes out the ends of # 9& 10 that you connect back into the wiring that goes to motor #1
Now window motor # 2’s wires goes into 3&4 and out of 11 & 12 on relay 1, then do the same input and output on relay # 2 when those wires come out of position 11 &12 from relay #2 they go back to the wiring for motor
#2
Now numbers 8,6 on relay 1 and 7,5 on relay 2 are power
Numbers 7 and 5 on relay 1 and 8 & 6 on relay 2 are grounds, then the ground swings from position # 6 on relay 2 to the backside of the switchboard to number 13 of relay 2 and 13 of relay 1.
Lastly, we wire the switch to posts #14 on relay 1 & 2
I wired my switch to my center console outlet, its a ***** to tap that wire as its really short and really down in the center console. If you want you can always find another circuit from the back but you will then need a three conductor wire vs a more standard two. Lastly, you can always send power to both sides of the switch and just ground the common but that’s more dangerous as it can lead to a short..
Before you go and wire everything up, make sure you have the right wires for the windows and you package tray power source (put in new fuse first). Ground one of the window wires and tap the package tray circuit to the other. You may see a spark but the window should move, if it doesn't release the power and reverse the polarity. Repeat for the other window.
Test this first as it will make trouble shooting a lot easier. If the windows go backwards with your switch, just turn the switch upside down or reverse the wires on the switch, do not reverse the wires on the relays. When you have the top computer disconnected, don't sweat that your front windows will not be one touch up or down, they will work again once the top computer is plugged back in and your top computer may trip out when you first get everything back together, don't panic, just hold the top close button down and it should reset, if not then you need to check your wiring.
Lastly, if you do get them working, don't drop the rear windows with out dropping the fronts or roll the rears up with the front windows up.
This will tear the molding and make the rear windows not seal right.
I've dropped the top with the rear windows down and so far the top computer doesn't seem to mind but I would roll them up just to be on the safe side.
Ok, that’s about all I can think of. Just take your time and make sure you use colored wires so you can easily see what 12v is and what ground is.
В этой схеме есть одно НО, они сделали отдельный выключатель для форточек
, что как бы дико колхозно и в своей машине я такого не хочу. В идеале сделать как в Luxlink-е нажал три раза на кнопку открытия окна, и форточка опустилась и тоже самое для подъема, поэтому предлагаю подумать и над этим моментом вместе.
[/img]
